Sweet Adrenaline

There comes a moment
In every series of moments
When the sensation of updraft
Feels like Icarus, but not fatal
Or that's what one tells oneself
(I tell myself)
A swell, ridden on a board
A wave that doesn't crash
But surges up the beach
Softly, stopping before town
Stepping off, sighing, I sense
That the time is nigh
For breathing out further
Expecting nothing
Smoothly, murmur